Bienenwachs richtig verarbeiten: Der komplette Guide für alle Kerzenarten

Processing beeswax correctly: The complete guide for all candle types

Beeswax is a noble but demanding natural material. In contrast to industrial waxes, it is "alive": it has its own characteristic scent, a natural color, and specific physical properties. To achieve a perfect result, one must consider its most important peculiarity: its high melting point (62–65 °C) and strong shrinkage behavior upon cooling.

Below you will find detailed instructions for three types of candles made exclusively from pure beeswax.

1. Molded Candles (Pillar Candles and Figures)

This is the classic: candles poured into silicone, plastic, or metal molds and removed after cooling.

The biggest challenge: Due to the strong shrinkage of the wax, a funnel or cavity often forms around the wick when it cools.

The Process:

  • Wick Preparation: For beeswax, you should only use sturdy cotton wicks. A wick that is too thin cannot melt the viscous wax, and the candle will "drown." Wicks with a loose weave (round or flat wick) are recommended.

  • Pouring Temperature: For complex shapes with fine details, you should pour the wax hot – at approx. 85 °C. This allows the wax to fill all patterns before it solidifies on the walls. For simple, smooth shapes, 75–80 °C is sufficient.

  • Compensating for Shrinkage (Repouring):

    1. Fill the mold completely.

    2. As soon as the candle begins to solidify, you will notice the wax sinking around the wick.

    3. Poke deeply into this hollow with a long knitting needle or wooden skewer (to release air pockets).

    4. Carefully pour hot wax to smooth the surface.

  • Cooling: Allow the candles to cure only at room temperature. Beeswax can crack if cooled too quickly (cold).

2. Candles in Glass (Container Candles) made from Pure Beeswax

Pouring pure beeswax into glass containers is the most challenging technique. As the wax contracts upon cooling, it tends to detach from the glass wall. This leads to unsightly marks ("wet spots") or cracks.

The biggest challenge: The adhesion of the wax to the glass.

The Process:

  • Choice of Glass: Use glasses with straight walls. Constrictions at the top are unfavorable, as the wax exerts pressure when cooling.

  • Preheating the Glasses (Mandatory Step): This is crucial. The glasses must be heated in the oven or with a heat gun to 50–60 °C. If you pour hot wax into a cold glass, it will immediately detach from the wall.

  • Pouring Temperature: This must be lower than for molded candles. Pour the wax at 65–70 °C (when it is still liquid but no longer overheated). This reduces the temperature difference and thus shrinkage.

  • Slow Cooling: After pouring, place the candles in a warm spot or wrap the glasses in a towel so they cool as slowly as possible. Rapid cooling will almost certainly lead to detachment from the glass.

  • The Wick: Since glass dissipates heat, you will need a wick for beeswax container candles that is 1–2 sizes larger than for soy wax candles of the same diameter.

3. Scented Candles made from Beeswax

Beeswax has a very dense crystal structure, which makes it release fragrances less easily than softer waxes. Furthermore, it has its own honey scent.

The biggest challenge: Harmonizing the fragrance oil with the wax's natural scent and ensuring proper oil binding.

The Process:

  • The Temperature Window: Strictly add the fragrance oil at a temperature of 72–75 °C.

    • If the wax is hotter, the fragrances evaporate immediately.

    • If it is cooler (below 65 °C), the wax begins to crystallize. The oil does not bind properly and can later "sweat out" on the surface of the finished candle.

  • Fragrance Composition: Always consider the base note. Your scent will always be: Your chosen scent + honey.

    • Good Combinations: Lavender, Thyme, Cedar, Sandalwood, Vanilla, Cinnamon, Orange, Tobacco.

    • Less Suitable: Cold, aquatic scents or light cucumber/watermelon notes – these conflict with the warm wax scent.

  • Dosage: Pure beeswax cannot absorb much oil. The recommended maximum amount is 3–5 % (3–5 g of fragrance oil per 100 g of wax). Overdosing will disrupt the candle's structure, which can lead to poor burning or sooting.

  • Stirring: After adding the fragrance, stir the wax slowly but thoroughly for at least 2 minutes to ensure the fragrance molecules are evenly distributed in the dense wax mass.

Conclusion for the Candlemaker:

Beeswax does not tolerate haste. Use a thermometer at every stage – even a 5-degree difference can affect the surface quality. Always perform a burn test: if the flame is too small, the wick is too thin; if the candle soots, the wick is too thick, or the fragrance oil content is too high.

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